English Foxhound

Independent, gentle, and sociable


Independent, gentle, and sociable

For 150 years, in the Southern U.S. and on the Atlantic Seaboard, the English Foxhound has worked alongside hunters in a fox hunting pack. With grace and strength and energy to spare, this breed can run all day in search of its quarry.

English Foxhounds were created in Britain using Staghounds, Greyhounds, and Bloodhounds. Brought to America in the seventeenth century by British colonists, these dogs lived in packs with wealthy landowners. George Washington imported English Foxhounds, in addition to other breeds.

A member of AKC’s Hound Group, the English Foxhound’s distinctive voice sounds out for miles. While this attribute helps in the woods on a hunt, it’s not always appreciated in a home environment.

Rarely regarded as a family dog, this breed needs strenuous daily exercise and makes a loyal companion to an active owner who enjoys hunting, running or hiking. The English Foxhound will run for hours alongside a bicycle, horse, or human. When the activity ends, the dog is content to doze alongside its owner.~Elaine Waldorf Gewirtz

Breed Standard

Official Standard of the English Foxhound

English Foxhound Club of America

Head: Should be of full size, but by no means heavy. Brow pronounced, but not high or sharp. There should be a good length and breadth, sufficient to give in a dog hound a girth in front of the ears of fully 16 inches. The nose should be long (41⁄2 inches) and wide, with open nostrils. Ears set on low and lying close to the cheeks. Most English hounds are “rounded” which means that about 11⁄2 inches is taken off the end of the ear. The teeth must meet squarely, either a pig- mouth (overshot) or undershot being a disqualification.

Neck: Must be long and clean, without the slightest throatiness, not less than 10 inches from cranium to shoulder. It should taper nicely from shoulders to head, and the upper outline should be slightly convex. The Shoulders should be long and well clothed with muscle, without being heavy, especially at the points. They must be well sloped, and the true arm between the front and the elbow must be long and muscular, but free from fat or lumber. Chest and Back Ribs – The chest should girth over 31 inches in a 24-inch hound, and the back ribs must be very deep.

Back and Loin: Must both be very muscular, running into each other without any contraction between them. The couples must be wide, even to raggedness, and the topline of the back should be absolutely level, the stern well set on and carried gaily but not in any case curved over the back like a squirrel’s tail. The end should taper to a point and there should be a fringe of hair below. The hindquarters or propellers are required to be very strong, and as endurance is of even greater consequence than speed, straight stifles are preferred to those much bent as in a Greyhound. Elbows set quite straight, and neither turned in nor out are a sine qua non. They must be well let down by means of the long true arm above mentioned.

Legs and Feet: Every Master of Foxhounds insists on legs as straight as a post, and as strong; size of bone at the ankle being especially regarded as all important. The desire for straightness had a tendency to produce knuckling-over, which at one time was countenanced, but in recent years this defect has been eradicated by careful breeding and intelligent adjudication, and one sees very little of this trouble in the best modern Foxhounds. The bone cannot be too large, and the feet in all cases should be round and catlike, with well-developed knuckles and strong horn, which last is of the greatest importance.

Color and Coat: Not regarded as very important, so long as the former is a good “hound color,” and the latter is short, dense, hard, and glossy. Hound colors are black, tan, and white, or any combination of these three, also the various “pies” compounded of white and the color of the hare and badger, or yellow, or tan. The symmetry of the Foxhound is of the greatest importance, and what is known as “quality” is highly regarded by all good judges.

Scale of Points

Head 5, Neck 10, Shoulders 10, Chest and back ribs 10, Back and loin 15, Hindquarters 10, Elbows 5
Legs and feet 20, Color and coat 5, Stern 5, Symmetry 5,

Total 100

Disqualification: Pig-mouth (overshot) or undershot.

Approved 1935

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